Free&Easy

SUMMER 2011 - August 19 to August 30
 

- Man At Work in Ukraine (Kiev and Lviv) and Romania (Timisoara, Brasov and Bucharest)

 
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Useful sites for your travel convenience.
Kyiv's public transportation includes the metro, buses, trolleys, trams and funicular. The metro is pretty efficient and very clean. A single ride metro is 2.00 hryvnia (UAH) regardless of destination and number of transits within metro.Taxis are plenty, however, one should be cautious about the price before boarding. In Lviv, there are minibuses, trams, trolleys, and taxis. Trams and trolleys cost 1UAH. Tickets can be purchased at kiosks, and they have to be validated once on board.
- http://www.metro.kiev.ua- Kyiv's Metro System. It is the first rapid transit system in Ukraine.
In Ljubljana, the Main Train Station is just next to the bus station. Local buses run till 10.30 pm. You pay 1.25 to the driver or buy cheaper 0.80 at post offices or the kiosks.
Timisoara's public transportation network consists of trams, trolleys and buses. You have to purchase the tickets from kiosks and validate them on board. Taxis are easily available.The same goes to Brasov. Unless you plan to travel far, most sights in Brasov are within walking distance. In Bucharest, the buses and trams are safe, reliable, and cheap. Cost is 4.0 lei for 2 trips. The Metro is also an alternative in Bucharest.
- http://www.metrorex.ro - Bucharest's Metro System.
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Where I stayed. What I ate. Favorite things.
Kiev and Lviv, Ukraine

Think of Communism, and I would associate it with a yellow star in a bright red background. Ukraine was integrated into the Russian Empire in the 1900s' until the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991. As I flew over the Atlantic Ocean to Kyiv, I was envisioning a city full of golden domes donning the blue skyline.

I did not arrive at my hostel till 8 at night. Feeling hungry, I took a walk along Chervonoarmiis'ka str., where the hostel is located. I was surprised to see (at least) five Japanese restaurants on that street alone! I decided to try one. The host was a young man in an oversized coat as I approached him. Unlike New York where you have to wait to be seated, here in Kyiv you are free to seat anywhere. The menu was sushi and Italian pasta with a twist of Japanese flavor. I ordered a soup plate of green pasta noodles with sliced chicken, and yakitori. Unfortunately, the meal was not good at all.

I started the next morning to Andrew's Descent. As I walked up the steep and winding cobblestone road, street vendors were beginning to start their business as usual activities - setting up tables, and unloading their merchandise from their vehicles.

At the top is Saint Andrew's Church. There are steps that lead up to the Church. Dark green dome with decorative spires decorated with ornamental details made this Church a landmark in this historic Podil neighborhood. Walk further away from here, you could see an ornate white bell tower standing majestically. This is the St. Sophia's Cathedral. It is the oldest standing church in Kyiv, built in 1037 by Prince Yaroslav the Wise, who incidentally was laid to rest here. This majestic 13-cupola sanctuary adjoined Yaroslav's Palace has become a holy place of worship for the Kyivites. Today the entire complex is protected by Ukraine, and receives support from UNESCO. Directly opposite St. Sophia's Cathedral is St. Michael's Golden-Domed Cathedral. Its sky blue exterior and glittering golden domes add a stunning layer to the cityscape around the entire area. Exit out from the cathedral to your right is a monument to the victims of Holodomor (starvation); a sobering reminder of Stalin's inhumane policies.

Having time on my side, I headed back to Andrew's Descent, and took the metro to Kyivo-Pechers'ka Lavra-Caves Monastery. The Monastery which made Kyiv the 'Rome' of Orthodox Christianity receives pilgrims from all over Europe and attracted droves of visitors yearly. It is 28 hectares of land with churches, towers and museums. The most interesting and holy site is the Underground Caves, where priests were mummified naturally, and laid in glass caskets. Women are required to wear scarves to cover their head before entering. Candles are given to some visitors to guide them through the tunnels.

Not far from the monastery, lies the Museum of Great Patriotic War. There are painted battle tanks, and other artillery and monuments surrounding the area. One of the monuments that stands out is the Mother Motherland monument, shining brightly as it reflects the beams from the sun. It is made of titanium, and measures 102 m (203 ft).

I ended my day at the Independence Square. This is where history was made in November 22, 2004, where the Orange-clad demonstrators gathered to protest the results of the run-off vote between two political candidates.

The unthinkable happened to me on my last day in Kyiv. I was pick-pocketed while riding the metro. It nearly spoilt my entire day. Not to be deterred, I went to the Golden Gate (Zoloti Vorota). It is the remains of the ancient Kyiv's main gate that were originally constructed during the height of the Kyivan Rus, and is considered as one of the most unique architectural archaeological sites in Kyiv.

The Kyiv Metro is the first rapid transit system in Ukraine. Riding the metro itself is a joy and its interior is amazing: decorated elaborately, showing the postwar Stalinist architecture blended with traditional Ukrainian motifs. It has one of the deepest stations in the world, Arsenalna at 105.5 metres below ground. The best part is, a single ride costs only 2.00 hryvnia which is less than a quarter in the United States.

I went to the main train station to relax my tired feet before my departure to Lviv.

Despite the misfortune incident, I had a really good time in Kyiv. I believed Ukraine has the most influential atmosphere from the former Soviet Union era. Now, I have added gold and dark green to my palette of yellow and bright red when I think of Communism.

I took a 9-hour train ride from Kyiv to Lviv. A second class cabin cost 170 hryvnia or UAH (approximately $25), and it comes with a set of comforter, blanket, pillow and towel. There is also a tea/coffee service.

The hostel that I stayed is located near the Old Town Square. It is in an old building with a huge courtyard. The spiral wooden staircase gave a squeaky sound as I walked up the stairs. After checking in, I took a quick shower. With no time to waste, I began to explore the historic city center which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

In the heart of Lviv lies the S. Krushelnystka Opera House which offers regular performances of various operas and ballets ranging in prices from 50UAH to 80UAH. Unfortunately, no shows were playing that day. I decided to walk around the Old City Center before my guided walking tour at noon.

Lviv's historic churches, buildings and relics date from the 13th century. The buildings have many stone sculptures and carvings, particularly on large doors, which are hundreds of years old. Most buildings are three-window houses. It would be a privilege to have a six-window house at that time. Constantine Corniaktos, a famous Lviv merchant, earned that right to build one for his merits. Churches are almost every where. Most of them are situated among rows of three to five storey buildings that have hidden inner courtyards and grottoes in various styles. Some of these churches worth spending time at are the Ensemble of the Armenian Church Cathedral, St. George Cathedral, and the Dominican Monastery and Cathedral. Monuments to Taras Shevchenko - the great Ukrainian poet and artist; Ivan Fedorov - the first Ukrainian and Russian book printers; King Danilo Galitsky - the founder of Lviv; and Leopold von acher-Masoch - Austrian write and journalist, are some of the city sculptures commemorating people and topics reflecting the rich history of Lviv.

As the city was preparing for its 20th anniversary of independence from the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, there were lots of activities going on in the Market Square (Ploshcha Rynok) where the City Hall is located. A large stage was being set-up for the event, while groups of teenagers were rehearsing for various traditional Ukrainian dances nearby.

Cafes, restaurants and gifts shops made this Square a huge draw to both locals and tourists.

The Pharmacy Museum, The Museum of Ethnography and Crafts, and The Lviv National Museum are some of the museums recommended by the tour guide. The guide was really enthusiastic about the history and culture of Lviv, and the tour lasted for almost four hours. After a day of walking, I went to a local restaurant for dinner. A grilled chicken leg and thigh, with salad and rissole cost about 36 UAH (less than $5).

Venture out of the Old City Center, you would probably come across a city's architecture that reflects various European styles and periods with cobblestones roads that are all very well-maintained. Most of these buildings are residential with a few family run businesses scattered around.

By evening, the celebration was in full swing. Participants from all over the world parading in their costumes to the thousands of enthusiastic spectators. Song and dance by local talents were performed live on stage, while not too far away, two ladies were doing the hoopla with fire to the beat of the drums. Local politicians took the opportunities to voice their opinions to the community, while children were seen 'rock climbing' from the wave monument behind Taras Shevchenko.

I am glad that I was at the right place at the right time. Witnessing the independence celebration by the Ukrainians in their traditional costumes showed how much they loved their country.

Timisoara, Brasov and Bucharest (Romania)

Timisoara is the fourth largest city in Romania. I arrived at Traian Vuia International Airport, which is the hub of Romania's second-largest airline, Carpatair in the morning. Like Lviv, Timisoara's public transportation network consists of trams, trolleys and buses. The bus to the city center takes about 40 minutes, and it cost only 2 lei ($0.75).

Most places of interests in central Timisoara are easily accessible by foot. The Piata Victoriei (Victory Square) is probably the most well-known square in the old district of Timisoara. There are dozens of coffee houses, and restaurants which surround the square. The stunning Romanian Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral is located on the south side of the square, with the Opera Theater on the north across a beautiful landscape of green plants, and a fountain. The cathedral is home to many valuables, and religious objects such as old icons and early writing in Romanian. It has 11 towers, of which the central and the highest has a height of 96 meters.

Piata Unirii (Union Square) is the old city's center. Here you find The Catholic Dome, The Baroque Palace, and The Serbian Church among other important buildings.

Getting around the city is also possible by bicycle as there are dedicated cycle lanes in many parts of the city.

Located between Victory Square and Union Square, is Piata Libertii (Liberty Square), a small square with old buildings. Here you can find the old City Hall and the St. Nepomuk's Statue. Carved in low resistance sandstone, the monument was built in memory of the 1738-1739 plague victims in Timisoara.

Timisoara is known in Romania as the City of Parks. The Botanical Park which is near Piata Unirii is the most beautiful park in Timisoara. Then there is the Rose Park which is near Piata Victoriei, the Central Park which is just behind the Metropolitan Orthodox Cathedral), and the Children's Park which is near the Student Campus.

The day I arrived in Timisoara was one of the hottest days in the city. Temperature was 33 degree Celsius (almost 92 degree Fahrenheit). I had to get away from the sun at a local Kentucky Fried Chicken restaurant. After I had a large cup of Pepsi (you need to request for ice, otherwise it will be just soda), I walked toward the Central Park, and sat under the shade. The park was originally a military cemetery. Today, it is a park with Monuments of Heroes, statues, and fountains.

There are rows of historic buildings as I walked my way to Gara Nord, the main train station for my night journey to Brasov. Most still retained their original state, while others have recently been restored. I saw trams that reminded me of the subway cars in New York City. It was like the iconic 7 (red) train cars given a second life here in Timisoara. It took me approximately an hour to walk from the park to the train station. I stopped at a cafe nearby for (bite size) pastries before I boarded my train.

Brasov is a good starting point for trips around Romania. I arrived at the main train station after a 10-hour journey train ride from Timisoara. Luckily the hostel that I stayed at is located not too far from the Old Town. The hostel is actually a huge house with lots of amenities, and a backyard for barbecue.

The Black Church is the most recognizable building in Old Town Brasov. It was built by the German community, and stands as the main Gothic style monument in the city. The Black Church (Biserica Neagr?) got its name after being blackened by smoke from the 1689 fire that almost destroyed the entire city. It measures 65 meters from the floor level to the highest point which is the bell tower. History suggested that there were supposed to be two bell towers. Unfortunately, the city was only able to build one because it was lacking in funds.

The Council Square (Piata Sfatului) is one of the finest central squares in the country. In the center of the square stands the Old Town Hall, now home to Brasov's History Museum. You'll find the renaissance-style Merchant's House (now it is a restaurant), and the archway of the Orthodox Cathedral. In late summer, the Golden Stag (Cerbul de Aur) music festival takes place here. Situated in the heart of old medieval Brasov, and lined with beautiful merchant houses, the Council Square, known to the Saxon population as the Markplatz, is a nice place to rest and soak surrounded by the peaks of the Southern Carpathian Mountains.

Built between 1400 and 1650, part of Brasov's defensive fortifications can still be seen today, though most was taken down in the 19th century to make room for the city's expansion. With a stream running along Dupa Ziduri Street on the west side of the wall, you'll catch a glimpse of the 15th century White and Black Towers. However, one cannot tell which is which as they both seemed to have the same color. Looking down from the White Tower is Graft Bastion, one of the original surviving bastions. Follow the city wall southeast, you'll find Catherine's Gate which was built in 1559. It is the only original city gate that survived the test of time, and it is used as the main entrance to medieval Kronstadt at one time. Nearby is the classicist Schei Gate.

Not too far from there is Colegiul Andrei Saguna (a Romanian college). St Nicholas's Church dominates the Schei District. With a mix of Byzantine, Baroque, and Gothic styes, it features a slender tower and four corner towers. It is surrounded by protective walls with large wooden gates. The enclosure shelters a small old Jewish cemetery.

Brasov is the seventh largest city in Romania. Although relatively small in size, it packs with lots of history, culture, and attractions. If you like, you can join a free guided tour daily at 6 pm which begins by the fountain at the Council Square. I took the tour, and I thoroughly enjoyed the 2-hour walking tour guided by Loana, a volunteer for a non-profit organization tour company.

And lastly, don't forget to take a walk through the world's tinniest street in Brasov, Strada Sforii.

Brasov to Bucharest is less than 3 hours by train. Bucharest became the state capital of Romania in 1862, and today it is the largest city in the country. I arrived on a quiet Sunday as most businesses were closed. As soon as I get out of the taxi to my hostel, I noticed cables were dangling at poles erected on the street. This scenario reminded me so much of the French Quarter in Hanoi. It was just ironic that Bucharest is known as the 'Little Paris' in Eastern Europe.

Bucharest eclectic architecture is a mix of old and new - medieval, neoclassical, art nouveau with modern skyscrapers. Many buildings are old (but well preserved) in the historic district area, while new ones with reflecting glass windows complete the landscape around the city. If you want to experience the charm of Bucharest, Calea Victoriei (Victory Road) would be the best place to begin. It was built as a main road in 1692 when Constantin Brancoveanu wanted a road to link to his palace at Mogosoaia with the Old Court. Some of the most beautiful buildings are found here: the National Savings Bank, the Telephone Palace, the Cretulescu Church, and the Romanian Antheneum.

Bucharest has an extensive public transportation system. It consists of the Bucharest Metro, buses, trams, trolleys, and light rail. Cost starts at 4.0 lei for two trips. Unlike the narrow subway platforms in New York City, the platforms in Bucharest Metro are wide. Like the stations in Kiev, the stations in Bucharest are clean, and trash free. The train cars have policemen on duty.

The downtown is at Piata Unirii (Union Square). The fountains give a cooling misty effect on hot summer days around the area. However, they looked pretty awkward, with major roads intersecting one another on one of the busiest streets in the city. It was caught up with Ceausescu's plan for urbanization, and unfortunately, lots of historical buildings and monuments were virtually wiped out to make way for what was to become the second largest building in the world, the Parliament Palace (Palatul Parlamentului). Today, it is one of the biggest tourist attractions in Bucharest. It opened to the public in 1990, and it has the biggest rooms, the biggest chandelier, and the biggest and longest conference room you've ever seen.

A free walking tour begins at Piata Unirii, near the fountains where the clock is. You have to look for a person wearing an orange shirt. A two-hour tour which takes tourists to Calea Victoriei to see Stavropoleos Church, the Old Court Church, and the Old Court. There's Manuc's Inn (Hanul lui Manuc) which was built around 1808. It used to be an inn, and later was used as a prison. After being abandoned for a number of years, today it is reopening as a hotel-restaurant and wine cellar. It is one of Bucharest's historical buildings. Another point of interests is the Villacrose and Macca passages. These two pedestrian alleys are roofed with tainted glasses, and wrought iron. They are lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants in a 'U' shape. The sun gives a natural light to the alley when it hits the tinted rooftop.

The tour ends by the Revolution Square. This is the site of a series of riots in December 1989. The Romanian Revolution overthrown the Communist government, and marked the end of Ceau?escu's regime. The Athénée Palace Hotel, the University of Bucharest Library and the Memorial Rebirth are all located here. Andrei Pana is one of the guides working for guide-bucharest. He showed passion in his work, and he loved his job although the guide(s) has to rely on tips as the main source of income.

That night, I joined the group for ice-cream at McDonald. I got a little lost on my way back to my hostel, and I had to be wary as Bucharest is known for its stray dogs roaming the streets at night.

The day before I left for the airport, I went to Caru' cu Bere for lunch. It is one of the oldest beer house in Bucharest. An impressive building in its own right, the Caru' cu Bere reminds us why Bucharest is known as 'little Paris'. The mural paintings, the stained glasses, and the carved cross-beams are all distinctive elements of an art nouveau building. Famous for its original homemade beer, it serves an excellent selection of Romanian cuisines.

The train runs to the airport from the main train station. It cost 8.00 lei (less than $3), and the last train out is before 9 pm. The train stops in the middle of nowhere in a housing area, and you have to drag your belongings to a waiting van nearby. It makes one wonder what happens if there is a group of twenty people on the train the same night?

There are definitely a lot more Ukraine and Romania have to offer to the tourism industry. They have been under the radar for quite awhile, and in recent years, governments of both countries have been aggressively promoting these countries as top tourists' destinations. The World Tourism Organization has already placed Ukraine in the top 25 most visited countries in world.

Ukraine and Romania are without doubt the places to go again and again.

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