SUMMER 2008 - August 5 to August 21 |
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-Man At Work in Zurich (Switzerland), Ljubljana (Slovenia), Croatia and Mostar (Bosnia) |
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Useful sites for your travel convenience. | ||||
Zurich's public transportation is efficient, clean and always on time. An unlimited 24-hour day pass is CHF6.50. | ||||
- http://www.zvv.ch - Zurich's Public Transit System. | ||||
- http://www.sbb.ch - Inter-city and Express Train System in Zurich. | ||||
In Ljubljana, the Main Train Station is just next to the bus station. Local buses run till 10.30 pm. You pay €1.25 to the driver or buy cheaper €0.80 at post offices or the kiosks. | ||||
- http://www.ap-ljubljana.si - intercity Bus System in Ljubljana. | ||||
Trains are generally slow in Croatia and nonexistent south of Split, thus the easiest way to get around is by bus. | ||||
- http://www.croatiabus.hr - Croatiabus and http://www.autotrans.hr - Autotrans Croatia | ||||
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Zurich, Switzerland | ||||
My first visit to Europe was almost 20 years ago, and it was Zurich that I came to love the most at that time. I still do. I went back to Zurich 3 years ago for the Annual Summer Street Parade. Comparable to Berlin's Love Parade, the Street Parade is one of the largest techno parties in the world. Kelvin, an old friend of mine who lives in Zurich, greeted me at the arrival hall in Zurich Airport. After he handed me the keys to his apartment, he left for his job at the airport. His apartment is at Kempfhoweg, which is about 30 minutes walk to the city center. It is a beautiful apartment with a large outdoor veranda good for barbecue. The same day I took a walk along the Limmat River toward the city center. Nothing much has changed in Zurich. But I noticed a few new Starbucks establishments in the city. Bahnhofstrasse is the main shopping area in Zurich. The residents enjoy one of the best qualities of life in the world, and here, you'll find the latest luxury and international brands as well as major departmental stores such as Jelmoli and Globus for the general affluence where shopping is their favorite pastime. Uniquely Swiss-made are the fine chocolates, cheese, Swiss Army knives, watches, embroidery and handmade clocks. On the top floor in Jelmoli, you'll find delicious cuisines which are self-service and charge by weight. It's a good way to enjoy an afternoon lunch without breaking the bank. Kelvin and I went shopping (again!) the next day. We took a walk to Old Town, a cobblestones streets with many specialty and antique shops adding to its charm. The three old churches in Zurich are clustered around this area: The Grossmünster ("great minster"), Fraumünster (Church of Our Lady) and St. Peter's Church. St Peter's Church is the oldest. It has the largest clock face in Europe with the minute hand 12 feet long! After a day of walking, we went home on the tram. Public transportation is extremely popular here, and it is one of the bests in the world. Here, you find S-Bahn (local trains), trams, and buses. Tickets are purchased on vending machines which are located at every stop. Like most cities in Europe, ticket agents occasionally check the passengers with valid tickets. If you do not have one, you pay a fine. That night we stayed in to watch the opening of the Summer Olympics 2008 in Beijing. Zhang Yimou choreographed the spectacular opening sequence. It was an eye opener to the rest of the world. China is finally here to stay. The following day was the Street Parade. We went out early to Odeon Cafe off Bellevue. A popular hangout among locals, Odeon Cafe has a classic art-nouveau interior with outdoor sittings as well. The cafe was already packed when we got there. Crowd was jamming the streets, and people were dressing up to their favorite characters. It reminded me of Halloween in America. Parade of floating trucks moved slowly along the road by Lake Zurich with people dancing and drinking with techno music blasting away from the speakers on each truck. After hopping from one place to another, we finally ended up back at the apartment for a barbecue. And to end the night, we proceeded to the bar to drink. It was fun as we bumped into some old friends that I have not met in years. Zurich is a leading global financial center in the world. Most of the research and development centers are concentrated in Zurich. According to several surveys, Zurich is constantly ranked among the wealthiest cities in Europe with the best quality in life. I can't think of anything unsatisfactory about the city. As I left the city the next night to Ljubljana, I was already looking forward to my next trip in Zurich. |
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Ljubljana, Slovenia | ||||
I took an overnight train from Zurich's Hauptbahnhof (Main Train Station) to Ljubljana. It was an 11-hour train ride, and it cost me CHF146. Arriving the next morning, I called the hostel to have someone picked me up at Železniška postage (Main Train Station). The hostel is about 20 minutes bus ride to the Old Town Square. Squeezed between the castle hill and Ljubljanica river, the Old Town has two squares, the Mestni Trg (City square) with the Robba fountain and the city hall behind it, and, farther on, the Gornji Trg (Upper square). Well preserved medieval buildings now house local designer shops, and several popular cafes and restaurants. Although they may look creepy, the perfectly safe narrow lanes can lead to charming little squares and buildings in Baroque style. This compact riverside city offers the romantic delight and hip underground vitality of Prague, without the crowds. Summer in Ljubljana can be pretty nice. I did not waste anytime since I had planned to stay for only two days, and my first point of interest was to Saint Nicholas Cathedral. Easily identifiable due to its green dome and twin towers, it is located nearby Ljubljana Central Market and the Ljubljana Town Hall. Triple Bridge (Tromostovje) which is just a stone throw away from the cathedral, consists of three separate picturesque bridges located next to one another. They do provide a majestic entrance to the Old Town. If you are not in a hurry, just sit by any cafe for tea or ice-cream, and watch the world go by. The water from Ljubljanka River does give a very nice relaxing feeling, with tour boats creating small water waves as they slowly move back and forth. Further down from the river, there's the Dragon Bridge. Completed in 1901, it is guarded by four detailed dragon statues from the city's coat-of-arms. One has to be careful around this area, as traffic can be heavy, and being a tourist you might get inattentive to your surrounding. I almost slipped and fell admiring the dragons. Between these two famous bridges, is Ljubljana Open Market. There is a flower market, fish and dried fruit on one level, bakery, dairy and meat on another level. There are also stalls selling herbs, spices, and local handicrafts such as baskets, and embroideries. Ljubljana has some pretty interesting architectures. Two buildings really stand-out - Ljubljana Town Hall and the National and University Library. The Town Hall is close to St Nicholas Cathedral. It has a combination of Baroque and Classicist style. It has a nice courtyard, and there is a small gallery showcasing its local arts and crafts. The Robba fountain originally located outside the Town Hall was renovated and moved into the National Gallery in 2006. What stands today in its previous site is just a replica. The National and University Library is designed by Jože Ple?nik, a famous Slovenia architect. The central staircase which leads to a reading room, set between colonnades of dark stone, is characteristic to his design style. Surrounding the walls outside the reading room, are pictures of famous political figures and inventors. They are the ones who shaped the world as we know today. There is a souvenir shop by the entrance, and I couldn't help but got myself three printed art pieces. I took a bus to Postojna Cave the next morning. The bus station is just outside the Main Train Station. One way ticket is €6 and it is less than 2 hours trip. The cave is amazing. It is one of the top tourists sites in Slovenia. However, be prepared to pay €19 for the entrance. It is home to the blind endemic olm, the largest trogloditic amphibian in the world. Going into the caves through the tunnel is a 10-minute electric train ride from the cave railway station. Tour starts at the Conference Hall, which is large enough to host meetings and concerts. As I was planning to go to Zagreb later the next day, I took the opportunity to visit the Ljubljana Castle. Entrance to the Castle Courtyard, Chapel and Gift shop is free although you have to pay for the funicular railway ride up the hill, and there is a charge for access to the tower. The tower has magnificent views all over the city. After some time relaxing in the Courtyard with a cup of tea, I went back down and head to the Outdoor Market again. I had a tomato and mozzarella cheese salad for lunch before my departure. I noticed that the waiters are allowed to smoke while on the job. This is not happening in America. It was really nice to be able to see Ljubljana. It came as a surprise to me that for such a small city, there is no deficiency compare to the bigger cities in any way except for its size. |
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Zagreb, Croatia | ||||
Croatia is about the size of West Virginia. With 1,100 miles of mainland coastline, it has one of the most beautiful beaches along the Adriatic Sea. Do you know that it is one of the most popular destinations in the world? And, it is home to seven UNESCO heritage sites? Continuing my journey from Ljubljana, I took a train to Zagreb. A 2-hour train ride cost €12. Located at King Tomislav Square (Trang Kralja Tomislava), Zagreba?ki Glavni kolodvor (Zagreb Main Station) is the largest railway station in Croatia. Zagreb is much bigger than Ljubljana. I had to admit that I made a mistake for not booking a place to stay before coming to Zagreb. After hours of walking with two bags in tow, and a blister on my foot, finally I had to settle for a hotel near the Main Train Station. It cost me $115 a night! I learnt my lesson. I left my bags in a locker at the train station the next morning, and started exploring the city around Bana Jelacica Square, which is the main square in the Old Town of Zagreb. An equestrian statue of General Jelacica stands tall in the middle of the square. Further up, there lies Zagreb Cathedral, the most famous building in Croatia with its spires seen from many locations in the city. There are two other famous cathedrals in Zagreb: St Mark's Church - tiles are laid on its roof to represent the coat of arms of Zagreb and Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Slovania and Dalmatia - and The Church of St. Catherine - famous for its stucco and wooden Baroque altars. Further down the road from St Mark's Church is the Stone Gate, a shrine to Virgin Mary where people can light a candle and pray. It's a very sombre atmosphere here, and if you happen to pass by, please be quiet as a respect to the locals praying, and hoping their wishes would be granted. Time to visit a museum. I decided to go to Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters, a 19th century neo-Renaissance building which housed permanent European paintings from the 14th to 19th centuries. That day was hot, and it was hot and humid in the museum. I was told that the air conditioner was already running to its full capacity. I wonder what that condition would do to the paintings in the long run. That night I decided to do a little 'people watching' at King Tomislav Square. It was pretty interesting as people hung out till very late at night. I saw so many men used the place as a public loo, and it made me wondered what would the women do if they have to go? After a sleepless but interesting night, I decided to take a bus (#106) at Kaptol Square to Mirogaj the next morning. Mirogaj is the central cemetery of Zagreb. The mortuary, and the impressive arcades with the church of Christ the King made it one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world. This is where Dr Franco Tudman, Croatia's first President was laid to rest. The day was getting hotter. I was beginning to feel agitated after 24-hour without a shower. I got a train ticket to my next destination, Zadar, (cost 156 kuna, approximately $28) departing at 9pm., and I took a shower at the Main Train Station (cost 45 kuna, approximately $8). Then I went to a bar for a beer, and watched the Olympic Games. Later I've learnt that in the summer months, most tourists and locals would travel to cities located along Croatia's coastline. This explained to me why the city of more than a million people seemed deserted in some areas. Zagreb has good transportation, spacious boulevards and squares. It has twenty theaters and over forty museums and galleries. Therefore, I think it would be a worthwhile stop for two or three days before you decide to head to other cities along the Adriatic Sea. |
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Zadar and Split in Croatia | ||||
Zadar was the first city I stopped on the Adriatic Sea. It was cloudy, and windy when I arrived early next morning. I left my bags in the locker, and took the bus to the main town in Zadar. In 1873, the town were converted from fortifications into elevated promenades with towers and gates which commanded an extensive seaward and landward views. Today, inside the ancient town, churches and monasteries that were first built are still left standing alongside with shops and cafes where narrow cobblestones city streets lead to well-preserved charming Renaissance style buildings. There are four old gates to enter the ancient town. I entered through Porta di Terraferma, designed by the Veronese artist Michele Sanmicheli in the 16th century. Cafes were beginning to pack with customers, and the outdoor market was starting to open up for business. I grabbed a sandwich and began exploring this charming town. St Donatus' Church, a monumental round building in pre-Romanesque style, is a well-preserved structure of its period in Dalmatia. The massive dome of the rotunda is surrounded by a vaulted gallery in two stories high. And, because of its massive solid structure, you could hear the echo of voices bouncing back and forth. There are remains of foundation embellished with lofty marble columns as well as some remains of a Roman aqueduct outside the church. The Roman Forum, the largest on the eastern side of the Adriatic lies in front of St Mary's Church which is directly opposite St Donatus' Church. Other churches worth mentioning here are St Anastasia's Cathedral and Churches of St Chrysogonus and St Simeon, all Romanesque style of very fine proportions. As the day got cloudier, I walked along the beach, and then headed to the other side of the ancient town. As I crossed the bridge, I saw floating private boats in the harbor along Zadar Channel. Streets here are a little different from the Old Town as they were developed at a later stage when the town grew bigger. I headed back to the train station for my next destination which was Split on a bus. Croatia has an extensive rail network, but some regions especially further down south from Zadar, are not easily accessible by train. Therefore, it's better to travel on a bus. The cost for a bus ride to Split is 100 kuna ($20) and it takes less than 4 hours. One word of cautious though, the bus station can be pretty chaotic, so make sure you are on the right bus with the right ticket as the buses are run by a few different companies. Split is Croatia's second largest city. Home to Diocletian's Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Split offers a wealth of museums and Roman ruins under a dramatic mountain backdrop, and a large promenade facing a vast expanse of the sea. Rather than just a museum piece, Diocletian's Palace is a remarkably well-preserved Roman ruin with shops, cafes, and private accommodations behind its walls. You could see the tradition of the Dalmatian way of life with lines of clothes hanging out of home windows. There are a few entrances into the Palace. The ceremonial entrance is a monumental court, called the Peristyle, which gives access to the Diocletian's mausoleum. It is also the location of the Cathedral of St Duje and the Bell Tower, which is the city's main symbol. A few steps below street's level, the ceremonial entrance court is lined with granite columns and two piers with Corinthian capitals. Just outside the Golden Gate, lies the statue of bishop Gregory of Nin, a medieval Croatian bishop. Rubbing the statue's toe is said to bring good luck. As darkness descends over the palace and its surroundings, Split can become a romantic spots for locals and tourists alike. I hung out really late that night cause everywhere is just walking distance. The hostel that I stayed is just 10 minutes walk from the palace, while the bus station is just a 5 minute walk. The following morning, I woke up and head to the Promenade. The sun was shining brightly, and with the avenue glazed with white tiles, the reflection from the sun can be blinding to the eyes. But people seemed to be enjoying the sun on the lazy chairs and benches laying along the Promenade under palm trees since summer comes only a few months in a year. That afternoon, I took a 4-hour bus ride (cost 105 kuna or $20) to Mostar in Bosnia. |
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Mostar (Bosnia) and Dubrovnik (Croatia) | Mostar was named after "the bridge keepers" who guarded the Stari Most (Old Bridge) over Neretva River. I came here for one reason: to see the Stari Most. The iconic bridge was heavily damaged in 1993, and fully reconstructed in 2004. When I arrived at the bus station, I was approached by a few middle-aged ladies asking if I needed a place to stay. I checked out a place which was just near the station. The lady, Maida rented her rooms out in her 3-bedroom apartment. The place turned out really nice and clean, and it cost €15 a night. Time was 5 pm. and the sun was still shining brightly. I decided to take a walk. As I was walking on Bulevar Revolucije (Revolution Boulevard) toward the Old Town, I came across empty buildings which were bombarded with firepower during the Bosnian War. It was quite an eerie feeling looking at the thousands of marks still left on the walls. They are a reminder to us all the effects and consequences coming from war. After the war, most were either rebuilt or restored with contribution from an international committee established by UNESCO. Mostar has long been known for its old Turkish houses and Stari Most. And, I could see a coexistence of diverse culture, ethnic and religious communities living together here. There is even a China shop here as well. The next day I went to Old Town once again. I came across a smaller version of the Old Bridge. It is said that it was a test before the major construction of Stari Most began. On Stari Most, I could see divers getting ready to dive. But wait! They are teasing the onlookers! They'll jump only when there's a huge crowd and don't forget to tip them cause it's customary. There's an Old Bazaar, Kujundziluk, which is named after the goldsmiths who traditionally created and sold their wares on the street, and today, you can still see them selling authentic paintings and copper or bronze carvings of the Stari Most. But unfortunately, the local artisans take so much pride on the bridge that most souvenirs have images of the bridge on them. I went to the Old Bridge Museum, and took a panoramic view from the top. I enjoyed myself with a cup of tea, and then I headed to the Main Bus Station for my last destination in Croatia, Dubrovnik. It cost 28 kuna ($6) for a 3 hour ride. I arrived in Dubrovnik at around 8.30 pm. Luckily the hostel sent someone to pick me up at the Main Bus Station. I met a girl from Malaysia, who is living in Melbourne. She was staying at the same hostel. We talked for hours sharing our travel experiences with one another. It was a very hot day in Dubrovnik. As I head to Old Town, I met a nice couple from Italy. We were talking about the signs in the city. Directions to hotels are everywhere, but there is no direction to the Old Town. Walking is not an easy task as the city is pretty hilly. Traffic is pretty bad too. Dubrovnik joined the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1979. A feature of Dubrovnik is its city walls that run more than 3 km around the city. The Dubrovnik Castle is a fine example of architecture, with a systems of turrets and towers built to protect the city. There's a busy market square area as well as side streets and alleys to explore. Pile Gate is one of the three entrances to Old Town. Stadun or Placa is the main street by Pile Gate. The limestone-paved pedestrian street runs about 300 meters through Old Town, with souvenir shops, banks, cafes on both sides. Lokrum is one of the favorite excursion destinations in Dubrovnik. It takes only 10 minutes to get there from the city harbor. Lokrum special attraction is a small lake, Mrtvo More (Dead Sea), a unique lake linked to the sea, with crystal clear water. And, peacocks roam freely here as well. I took a walk round the city wall before sunset. I would recommend that cause in the daytime it could get pretty hot here. It took me about two and a half hours. Some of the star attractions walking on the city walls that you will probably see around Old Town are: Bell Tower, Sponza Palace, Placa Stradun, Big Onofrio's Fountain, Old Port and Fort Lovrijenac. Views are spectacular on either side of the wall. Croatia was internationally recognized on January 15 1992 by the European Union. Its economy turned the corner in 2000 as tourism rebounded. Tourism is a notable source of income during the summer months, with over 11 million tourists in 2008. "We are busy here in the summer, but it's pretty much dead here in the winter", said a hostel owner in Split. I left Croatia the next day thinking maybe sometime in the near future it might be interesting to come back in the winter. |
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